From the website inandaroundjerusalem.com (with permission), a website for outdoor activities - hikes (tiyulim), walks, family cycling and outdoor swimming - in Jerusalem, the Jerusalem Mountains, Judean Desert, north and south of Jerusalem, and Shefela (up to 75 minutes drive from Jerusalem, with directions for public transport), with interesting articles on the history, geography, geology and botany of Israel.
This non-circular walk visits the first three Jewish residential areas built outside the Old City walls - starting at Mishkenot Sha'ananim, passing through Mahaneh Yisrael, and ending at Nahalat Shivah close to the center of town. It can also be shortened to a circular walk through Mishkenot Sha'ananim and the adjacent neighborhood of Yemin Moshe. Yemin Moshe is an extremely beautiful area with picturesque streets and pretty gardens and there are impressive views of the Old City walls.
Time: About 2½ hours
Distance: 5½ km
Difficulty: This is a very easy walk, but is not stroller or wheelchair friendly because of the many steps.
Starting point: The walk starts at the intersection of Keren Hayesod St., King David St. and Jabotinsky St.. There are WC's close by in Bloomfield Garden near the water fountain.
Directions: Enter into Waze "Mishkenot Sha'ananim' or 'משכנות שאננים"
Parking: There is metered street parking by the windmill.
Public transport: Public transport is advised, since this is not a circular walk. Enter into Moovit "Yemin Moshe".
OVERVIEW
SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE - ENTREPRENEUR EXTRAORDINAIRE
The windmill stands out on the Jerusalem landscape as a fitting testimony to the many projects carried out in Palestine by this special person, Sir Moses Montefiore. In actuality, this particular project was well intentioned but not very successful. There was insufficient wind, replacement parts were expensive and had to be imported from Europe, and after a few decades it was rendered obsolete by newer diesel technology brought to Jerusalem by a miller in the nearby German Colony.
Nevertheless, his other projects were innovative and monumental. All of them answered the needs of the time, although sometimes it took potential beneficiaries a while to realize that this was the case.
Moses Montefiore (1784-1885) made his initial fortune as a stockbroker in London, and he decided to retire at age 40 to devote his life to philanthropy and charitable deeds. As a philanthropist, he not only gave away his own money, but was entrusted by others for their charitable contributions, and this made him even more effective.
His effectiveness for Jewish causes was much aided by a number of factors. He had developed a reputation for philanthropy from being active in prominent non-Jewish causes. He had connections with the English aristocracy, including Victoria, the Queen of England, who lived close to him in Ramsgate and who believed in the central role of the Jewish people. He was also a brother-in-law and business partner of Lord Nathan Rothschild of the famous Rothschild banking family. Like Montefiore, he also had a very hands-on approach to his Palestine projects, and undoubtedly they compared notes. Montefiore visited Palestine seven times between 1827 and 1875. He was very affected by his first visit in 1827 and he determined to lead a strictly religious life from then on.
He took upon himself the function of ambassador at large for the Jewish people in countries in which Jews were experiencing difficulties, and he was knighted by Queen Victoria in 1846 for his services to humanitarian causes for the Jewish people. He was President of the Board of Deputies of British Jews for 39 years - the longest time a single person had held this position. He was elected Sheriff of London in 1837.
He took upon himself the function of ambassador at large for the Jewish people in countries in which Jews were experiencing difficulties, and he was knighted by Queen Victoria in 1846 for his services to humanitarian causes for the Jewish people. He was President of the Board of Deputies of British Jews for 39 years - the longest time a single person had held this position. He was elected Sheriff of London in 1837.
Montefiore had a considerable influence on the early expansion of Jerusalem, and his name is connected to a number of neighborhoods in the city. The Ottoman Empire ruled Palestine for about 400 years, until the First World War. The Turks had no interest in Jerusalem and it remained a backwater of their empire. The Jews in Jerusalem lived only in the Old City, as its city walls provided them protection. However, their living conditions were extremely difficult. There was severe overcrowding, unsanitary conditions, and a water supply from cisterns that were often polluted and responsible for disease. It was clear to visionaries such as Moses Montefiore that the Jews had to develop residential areas outside the Old City. However, living outside the city walls was dangerous. Non-Muslims were also not permitted to purchase land.
The Crimean War changed this situation. The Turks won this war with the assitance of the European powers, and one of the conditions of the final settlement was that non-Muslims would now be allowed to purchase land in Palestine. This enabled Moses Montefiore to buy a large plot of land just outside the city walls, albeit at a very inflated price, and Mishkenot Sha'ananim was built on this land. This land purchase would also be used later for building Yemin Moshe. (This change in Ottoman policy also permitted the purchase at about the same time of land for the Russian Compound by the Russians and the German Colony by the German Templers).
The settlement of Mishkenot Sha'ananim, which means " peaceful habitation" , was Montefiore's first effort to persuade Jews to live outside the Old City. When it was completed in 1860 there were no takers, despite his apartments being rent-free. He upped the offer by offering a stipend. A few people signed on, but they returned to the Old City at night to sleep, as they were too scared to permanantly move outside the city walls. However, However, there was a cholera epidemic in the Old Cityin 1865, in which about a third of the population died, provided the impetus for people to look seriously at his new apartments. In response, Montefiore built a second building to provide additional housing.
The success of this project provided the impetus for the development of other residential areas in Jerusalem. Thus, Mishkenot Sha'ananim can be considered the first stage in the development of modern West Jerusalem.
The walk:
- From the intersection of Keren Hayesod St., King David St. and Jabotinsky St. head down Bloomfield Avenue and cross Heinrich Heine St towards the windmill plaza to view the windmill and exhibit.
This windmill was built by Moses Montefiore to provide an occupation for the people living in his new settlement and to provide cheaper flour for the people of Jerusalem. However, it was not one of his greatest successes. Eventually, after 19 years of use, it broke down and was not repaired, since a diesel-powered flourmill was now in operation in the German Colony.
The mill in front of you is not entirely original, as it was damaged during the War of Independence. Renovations based on photographs of the original were completed in 2012. The windmill is often closed, but when open, you can examine the workings of the mill and view the museum exhibit of the life and public works of Sir Moses Montefiore.
A reconstruction of Montefiore's carriage is also on display next to the mill. This is how he travelled around the world helping the Jewish people. The carriage added to his aura and effectiveness. His original carriage was severely damaged in a fire here, and this one was reconstructed in 1990. Note the word Jerusalem on his coat of arms.
The building immediately below the observation area, is one of the two buildings of Mishkenot Sha'ananim.
- Exit the area of the windmill, and turn left down the hill along Hatsayar Ya'akov Shteinardt St. in the direction of the Lion Fountain. There are a number of observation plazas in this area, but the best viewing is from a small observation plaza on the left with a wooden platform and benches, a telescope, a plaque clearly identifying points of interest, and a recording in Hebrew, English and Arabic describing the area of Yemin Moshe and the Old City.
With the help of the sign, identify below the Valley of Ben Hinnom, a favored site for child sacrifice to Molech during First Temple times. Beyond your view, it joins with the Kidron Valley and partially surrounds the City of David. On your left is the south-west corner of the Old City wall. Ahead of you is Mount Zion and the prominent Dormition Abbey. Below in the distance is the village of Silwan, predominantly Arab, but also with some Jewish residents. Beyond this is the separation barrier that divides land under the jurisdiction of the Palestine Authority from that under Israeli control. On the right is the village of Abu Tor, a mixed Jewish and Arab neighborhood. You can also see the roof of the Begin Center, and behind this St. Andrew's Scottish Church built by the British during the Mandate period.
- Where the road curves to the right to the Adenauer Conference Center, go straight ahead on the footpath. Just before the Lion's Fountain, take the first path on the left. This leads through a pleasant park to another observation area providing a view of Mishkenot Sha'ananim on the left and the Begin Center on the right. Continue down the steps to Nahon St.
- At the beginning of the Bnai Brith Bridge that crosses Hebron St. is a Peace Monument made by Yigal Tamarkin. The verse in Hebrew and Arabic on the statue is the well-known verse from Isaiah 2:4 that speaks of turning swords into ploughshares, which is why the lower part of the monument is made from metal from military vehicles and farming equipment.
The monument was commissioned by Abie Natan (1961-2008), the well known humanitarian and peace activist. He advocated for peace with Egypt, and after the Six Day War for peace with the Palestinians. He is famous for his Voice of Peace radio station which once broadcast from a ship outside Israeli territorial waters. The monument was erected at the edge of no-mans land, opposite the Jordanian border, just a few months before the Six Day War.
- Follow Nahon St. to the left and in a few minutes you will come to an archway on the left with wooden doors, which is a front entrance to Mishkenot Sha'ananim. Go through the archway and walk up the steps ahead and you will get a good view of the building by peering over the metal gate.
The land for Mishkenot Sha'ananim was purchased by Sir Moses Montefiore and the project made possible with money from the estate of Juda Touro, an American Jewish businessman from New Orleans. Montefiore was the executor for his will in which $50,000 was earmarked to fund Jewish settlement in Palestine. The first building was built in 1860. The metal work is from Ramsgate in the United Kingdom, which is where Montefiore lived, and shows his hands-on involvement in the project.
Each apartment had 2 rooms and an outhouse, and was (and still is) numbered with Hebrew lettering. At the top of the building is a plaque in Hebrew in the shape of a Magen David commemorating its two benefactors – Juda Touro and Moses Montefiore.
Security, actual and perceived, was of paramount importance for this new project. Note how the roof has parapets, which were meant to resemble those of the Old City and to convey the feeling that these buildings were as safe as the Old City. Its name, which translates as " peaceful habitation", also conveyed a message of security. On a more practical level, the communty was surrounded by walls with secured gates, one of which you are now standing by.
After the Six Day War, when this entire neighborhood was renovated, these buildings were turned by the city into a cultural center and guesthouse for writers, intellectuals and musicians.
- Continue along Nahon St. past the restaurant to the end of the street, and then turn left onto Yemin Moshe St. From this point, you will be doing some zig zagging to view Yemin Moshe and its two synagogues.
Yemin Moshe was established in 1892-1894 by the Montefiore Welfare Fund. The land around Mishkenot Sha'ananim had been previously bought by Moses Montefiore from the Judo Touro estate and the project dear to Montefiore's heart of settling Jews outside the Old City wascontinued after his death.
Following the War of Independence, this area was on the armistice line with Jordan and became a dangerous place to live because of Jordanian sniper fire. It was populated by new immigrants and the area deteriorated. After the Six Day War and the reunification of the city, Yemin Moshe was redesigned as an upscale neighborhood and the immigrants living here were relocated. Compensation was provided for alternative accommodation, but one cannot but feel sympathy for these people. Over the years they had created a community here in very difficult conditions.
Nowadays, this is a beautiful neighborhood with picturesque buildings, attractive gardens and quiet. Much of this quiet is due to the fact that a large proportion of the owners of the buildings here live outside the country for much of the time.
- Go up the steps and take the first right onto Ha-Mevasser St. At the end of this road, turn left onto Ha-Migdal St, and then take an immediate right onto Pele Yoez St. On the right, you will see Beit Yisrael Synagogue, the original Ashkenazi synagogue of Yemin Moshe. This synagogue was dedicated in 1899 and was one of the first synagogues to be built outside the Old City. The building was renovated in 1967 after the Six Day War and now houses an active "Anglo" congregation.
- There is a small pretty garden ahead. Before this, turn left onto Ha-Metsuda St. There is a white plaque on the four-storey building on the left that memorializes Avraham Michal Kurschenbaum who, just before the start of the War of Independence, used a Bren gun to prevent an Arab horde from attacking Yemin Moshe. He was shot by a British marksman from the King David Hotel, as the British had ruled it illegal during their Mandate for Jews to have weapons.
- After viewing the plaque, turn around, retrace your steps down a flight of steps, and take the first turning on your right, which is Ha-Tiqwa St. This road has two paths, an upper and lower one. Take the upper path as it is more picturesque. After crossing Ha-Migdal St. this road leads directly into Malki St.
Just before the end of this road, you will see an inconspicuous building on your left, which is the original Sephardi synagogue, the Beit Knesset Hasephardi Hagadol. Between the War of Independence and The Six Day War this was a thriving synagogue, but when the area was gentrified, the Sephardim, who until this time had been living rent-free, had to leave. The synagogue still has Shabbat services and I am told there are original inhabitants who come back here from other parts of the city to attend services.
- At the end of Malki St, turn right onto Yemin Moshe St. and go up the steps. Take the first right onto Tura St. (the street is not signed at this point). Continue on this street until you come to its end at Metsuda St.
- At the end of Tura St., go down and then up the stairs on the left to a Jerusalem treasure - to a quiet and beautiful garden, the Boustan Abraham Gozlan. Climb up the path to the top of the garden and then turn right. Continue on this path until you overlook the fountain. With the peaceful sound of running water in the background, relax a bit, and then explore the garden (see the photo below).
At this point, for a shorter circular walk, retrace your steps along the top of the garden and return to the windmill plaza via Heinrich Heine St. and the beginning of this walk. Alternatively, continue as below for a longer walk that will take you into the center of town.
- Opposite the fountain, turn left and exit the park onto King David St. between building number 27 and the King David Hotel. Before reaching these buildings, notice on your left some rocky ruins in a depression. This is a Second Temple-era burial cave, sometimes identified as King Herod's family's tomb.
- At the end of Elimelech Admoni St., turn right onto King David St. and continue past the King David Hotel on your right and the YMCA building on your left.
- Cross over King David St. at the second pedestrian crossing just before Paul Emile Botta St. Cross Abraham Lincoln St. and then Moshe Hess St. and you will soon see an alleyway between the two buildings of the King David Residence. Take the steps down to the former Mahane Yisrael quarter.
Mahane Yisrael is the second neighborhood built by Jews outside the Old City walls, in 1868. It was formed by Moroccan Jews from North Africa who felt they were not getting a fair share of Sephardi communal funds, and under the leadership of their dynamic leader, Rabbi David ben Shimon, decided to go it alone and build their own neighborhood. The experience of Mishkenot Sha'ananim made people realize that this type of project could be accomplished, and that living outside the city walls was not excessively dangerous. This is therefore the first neighborhood outside the city walls built by the inhabitants themselves.
The neighborhood was small and the houses were not well built, but it was constructed with considerable enthusiasm. At the back of the central courtyard on Hama'ravim St. and Zamenohoff St., where there are still a few original buildings.
This must be one of the most beautiful courtyards in Jerusalem. It forms the garden patio for the building housing the Worldwide North Africa Jewish Heritage Center. This building belonged to Rabbi David ben Shimon, but was deserted after the War of Independence when this area became a no-man's-land. After the Six Day War, the building was renovated as a cultural center and museum. Moroccan artisans were brought in specially to produce the mosaics.
- Exit the courtyard by the 3rd alleyway on your left, opposite the second water fountain. Turn right when this section of alley comes to an end, and continue to Agron St.
- Turn left on Agron St., cross over the road at the pedestrian crossing, and take the immediate first turning on your right between Independence Park and a cemetery from the Mamluke period. The Mamilla Pool (now empty of water) which is in the cemetery was part of the water system built by Herod during Second Temple times to provide the city of Jerusalem with water. Continue on this road until its intersection with Hillel St.
- Cross Hillel St. and go a short distance along Yoel Moshe Salomon St. until you come to the intersection of this street with Yosef Rivlin St. On the wall of the wine shop there there is a small plaque with information about Nahalat Shiva, the 3rd settlement built by Jews outside the city walls. Now walk a short distance along Yosef Rivlin St. and follow this road to the left at Havilio Square. At the building marked #14, turn left into the Nahalat Shiv'ah quarter.
In the 1860's, seven brave families pooled resources to form the Builders of Jerusalem Society, bought land and built the third Jewish neighborhood outside the city walls. Most were descendants of disciples of the Vilna Gaon, and they believed that building up Jerusalem was part of the Divine plan for Redemption. The neighborhood has an Ashkenazi and Sephardi synagogue. Recently, the entire area was slated for demolition by the Jerusalem Municipality as the area had become very dilapidated; but there was considerable resistance to this among Jerusalemites. As you can see, the will of the people prevailed! It's now a delightful place to wander through.
- Follow the alley to the right, and walk through the center path this neighborhood until you come to the two synagogues of this quarter - Nahalat Ya'akov, the Ashkenazi synagogue, on your left, and Ohel Yitzhak, once the Sephardi synagogue but now a Chabad Center, on your right. Past the synagogues, turn left into the alleyway towards Yoel Moshe Salomon St. You will pass a popular kosher café/restaurant/second-book store on your right called Tmol Shilshom which has outside WC's.
- Turn right on Yoel Moshe Salomon St., and this will lead you to Jaffa Rd. at its intersection with Ben Yehuda St. This is the end of the walk. The closest stop on the light rail is a few minutes away on your left.
Nearby places of interest:
The Begin Museum at 6 S.U. Nahon St.: This museum near Yemin Moshe is well worth a visit. Menachem Begin emanates Jewish pride and the story of his life and political activities is quite inspiring. The museum is in the form of an experiential multi-media exhibit that takes you on a time journey. It is open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 9.00 AM-4.30 PM, Tuesday 9.00 AM-9.00 PM, and Friday and holidays 9.00 AM-12.30 PM. Tours have to be booked in advance. You can fill in this form online or call 02 565 2011. The museum commentary can be heard in Hebrew, Engish, Russian, Arabic, French or Spanish.
There are also three museums close to Nahalat Shiv'ah you may wish to visit:
Friends of Zion Museum at 20 Yosef Rivlin Street, Nahalat Shiv'a. This museum presents a 3-D virtual tour of the non-Jewish political figures, academics, businessmen and military officials who through their faith forged a bond between Jews and Christians. The museum isopen Sunday to Thursday 9.30 AM-6.00 PM, Friday 9.30 AM-2.00 PM, and Saturday 10.00 AM-6.00 PM. You can book a tour in Hebrew or English at 02 532 9400 or look at their website to see how booked-up the tours are and just show up. There is an admission fee.
The Museum of Jewish Music at 10 Yoel Moshe Salomon St. is a unique museum that shows the influence of the diaspora on Jewish music. There are several rooms with displays of different instruments from different parts of the world and many of the instruments can be heard. You can go on an organised tour or do a self-guided tour with a computer pad and earphones. Tours and pad explanations are available in English. There is staff to help you if you have any technical difficulties. A highlight of the museum is a reality display of the ancient Temple. It is impressive, although only tangentially related to the theme of the museum. The museum is open Sunday to Thursday 9.00 AM-5.00 PM and Friday 9.00 AM-1.00 PM. There is an admission charge. Their phone number to book a tour is 02 540 6505 or contact contact@hebrewmusicmuseum.com
The Museum of Italian Jewish Art is at 25 Hillel St. This museum displays impressive Italian Judaica from the Rennaisance to the present. One exhibit is an entire synagogue that was brought over from the Italian city of Veneto. This beautiful synagogue had ceased to function since the First World War. The museum is open Sunday, Tues and Wed 10.30 AM-4.30 PM, closed Monday, Thursday 12.00 AM-7.00 PM, and Friday 10.00 AM-1.00 PM. The museum is closed Shabbat. The synagogue is used by Italian Jews for services on Shabbat. There is an entrance fee.
The colorful streets of Yemin Moshe are a delight to wander through.
Listen to the running water and relax in this beautiful and little-known park, the Boustan Abraham Gozlan. It be reached from Metsuda St. as in this walk, from Heinrich Heine St. and from King David St.
The courtyard in front of the Worldwide North Africa Jewish Heritage Cente courtyard in the old Mahane Yisrael quarter must be one of the most beautiful courtyards in Jerusalem.
