the history of that unique Israeli produce - Skedei marak. How did a bureaucratic mix-up during Israel's 1950s austerity period lead to one of Israel's most unique culinary innovations? How did an Ashkenazi Jewish Passover recipe end up on the holiday table of every Jewish Israeli, & where does the distinctive yellow color of the soup almond come from? The skedei marak. (What a story?)
The Happy Mistake That Gave Us the "Soup Almond"
Boys enjoying a bowl of soup in a HaNoar Haoved summer camp. Every year during Independence Day, we are reminded of how we invented drip irrigation, the cherry tomato & the disk-on-key. But there is one Israeli invention that is a special source of national pride & that no holiday table dares be without:- the 'soup almond'. Those crunchy, yellow, crouton-like additions to soup, which miraculously appear just about everywhere during the holiday season in Israel. "Soup almond" is a literal translation of the Hebrew term shedei marak: sometimes used even by English speakers, though others prefer "soup mandels", "soup nuts" or the Yiddish mandlakh. Advertisement for Osem soup almonds. Designer: Otte Wallish. After all, what's the point of soup if it doesn't have a little something extra; chopped vegetables, dumplings, noodles, croutons or whatever. This is how soup becomes a satisfying & heart-warming dish, & this was also the thinking of the Osem company's food engineers. Having soup in the Pardes Hana immigrant camp. What extras did they have for soup in those days? 1948 - the re-birth of the Jewish State: It was the early 1950s, the days of tzena— Israel's national austerity plan. Two years earlier, Osem had come up with another brilliant invention to deal with the rice shortage. They called it petitim, - tiny toasted pasta balls sometimes referred to as "Ben-Gurion rice" (or "Israeli couscous" in later years). The company was now facing another rationing crisis. According to the Osem website, each factory received a monthly allowance of flour. It was probably human error (an accident) but one month the Osem plant did not receive its flour allowance. Boys enjoying a bowl of soup in a HaNoar Haoved summer camp. Practical advice: Everyone is familiar with the saying, "when life gives you lemons, make lemonade". In this case, the lemons were 300 kilograms of oil gifted to the Osem company to compensate for the missing flour. Lemonade was one idea but & Osem wasn't about to pass on the offer. But what to do with so much oil? Thus, company engineers decided to use the oil to fry flour. And lo & behold; - a miracle: this is how the soup almond as we know it was born. The color of fried flour may not be very 'nice', so a bit of turmeric extract turned them a bright yellow. Advertisements for Osem soup almonds and "egg almonds". Osem egg almonds. Advertisements for Osem soup almonds & egg almonds in Hebrew, German, Hungarian and Yiddish. An Ashkenazi custom: Osem's soup almonds didn't appear out of thin air; first there were zup mandlen, Yiddish, which were added to the soup that Ashkenazi Jews ate during Passover. They were made from matzah meal & egg & were apparently much larger, perhaps more similar to the matzah balls (kneidlach) that many know today. But, unlike the matzah ball which is boiled, the homemade soup almonds were either baked or fried, just like today's soup almonds. Passover advertisement for zup mandeln, from the Yiddish Newspaper Forverts, April 4, 1943 Like any product created by accident or under improvised circumstances, the initial appearance of the Osem soup almonds did not resemble what they look like today, & there were also variations in name & use. In the beginning, Israeli soup almonds were made in two forms: one was diamond-shaped & flatter (but larger than today's version), & the other was oval like an egg & was called an "egg almond". The home-made Ashkenazi soup almonds may have been the inspiration, but the company believed that the fried flour morsels might also have other uses. Early newspaper ads & posters preserved in some libraries - recommend adding the egg almonds to cold or hot drinks, & even to a glass of beer. One famous Ad: Osem soup almonds. The product evolved over time. It was adapted to the local market & was given new & sophisticated packaging. The soup almond finally settled on its square & puffy shape, unique yellow color, salty taste, becoming a must-have product on every holiday table, because how can you eat soup without it? Today you can buy shkedei marak in a resealable bag or in a plastic container. And companies besides Osem make them as well. Some even eat them by the handful as a snack; "hold the soup". Advertisement for Osem soup almonds. Translated & shortened by Steve Sattler
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